B432 CHAMPAGNE JESTIN CHAMPAGNE CLOS DE CUMIERES EXTAR BRUT 2012 750ml

Clos de Cumières 2012. He acquired this clos together with his brother in 2011, with the 2012 vintage marking its first release. The vineyard is ploughed by horse by Vincent Laval (Champagne Georges Laval), and the wine has been aged in the underground cellars of Champagne Leclerc Briant, where Hervé Jestin serves as chief winemaker.

Although he showed me the newly designed label in 2018, with an initial release planned for 2019, the debut of Clos de Cumières was ultimately delayed until 2023 due to regulatory changes concerning the use of the term “Clos.”

While there is ongoing discussion around the classification of “Clos” in Champagne, only a small number are widely recognized as true clos. Clos de Cumières—at just 0.49 hectares—is among the smallest and has been acknowledged within this group:

Clos du Mesnil (1.84 ha)
Clos des Goisses (5.50 ha)
Clos Saint-Hilaire (1.04 ha)
Clos du Moulin (2.20 ha)
Clos de Cumières (0.49 ha)

The vineyard is planted equally with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (1964 and 1965 plantings), reflected in the final blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay. Biodynamic farming has been practiced since the time of the previous owners, the Leclerc family.

The wine was aged in 100% oak barrels for 10 months, bottled in July, and then matured on lees for nearly 10 years. It is produced without added sulfites. Hervé Jestin’s distinctive approach—extending biodynamic principles into the cellar—has evolved through his work with Duval-Leroy (Authentis) and Marguet (Sapience and Cuvée Jestin), and is fully expressed in Clos de Cumières.

Since 2012, annual production has ranged from 2,000 to 3,500 bottles (with only 1,100 bottles in 2017 due to frost), all released as vintage Champagne. Dosage is zero or below 2 g/L, depending on the vintage.

The 2012 vintage totals 2,341 bottles. Although labeled Extra Brut, it is in fact zero dosage.

How to Appreciate
(by Hervé Jestin)

This is a gastronomic Champagne rather than an aperitif-style wine. It is also, in a sense, a “philosophical Champagne,” best enjoyed in a quiet setting, with a positive and receptive mindset. It is intended to bring a sense of calm to the taster. For me, the essential idea is to experience the wine while remaining attentive to the emotions it evokes.

The ideal serving temperature is between 13 and 14°C. Avoid using an ice bucket, as excessive chilling can be too harsh. The wine requires time to open—at least 15 minutes after pouring. It is also important to handle the glass gently and avoid any sudden agitation.

It can be interesting to taste the wine while facing different directions (north, south, east, and west), with particular attention to the westward direction, toward Champagne. If possible, tasting on a fruit or flower day is considered especially favorable.