[A812] Abekan Kaeru HanaM 阿部勘 純米吟醸 蛙 花笑む 阿部勘酒造 宮城県 720ml

The Abekan KAERU series makes a comeback after three years—this time, named "HanaEmu" (Flower Smiling). "HanaEmu" is an ancient Japanese expression carrying beautiful meanings such as "flowers blooming," "bearing fruit," or "a beaming smile." For convenience, we will refer to it here as "HanaM." This Junmai Ginjo is crafted using Miyagi Prefecture's "Gin-no-Iroha" rice, polished down to 55%."

Gin-no-Iroha" is a relatively new variety that debuted in 2019. Abekan Shuzo released its first 100% Gin-no-Iroha version—a Junmai Ginjo White Label—last spring. This season, they are utilizing the rice for both HanaM and a Yamahai Junmai Ginjo. This particular rice variety seems to yield a surprisingly full-bodied flavor profile. Combined with a subtle sweetness and a rounded mouthfeel, HanaM delivers considerable volume and presence despite its low 13% alcohol content. Interestingly, the previous White Label release also developed a remarkably rich, thickened flavor after a few months on the market, showing the fascinating potential of this rice.

>>>Read more about this bottle at the News Archive

>>>Read more stories at the News Archive

Interestingly, the pattern in the background of the label is a design based on the chemical structural formula of lactic acid.

Yamahai Method

Yamahai is a historic, artisanal brewing method that relies entirely on natural, wild lactic acid bacteria from the brewery’s air, rather than adding commercially cultured acid.

Historically, the traditional Kimoto method required a grueling, overnight manual process called Yama-oroshi, where brewers stood over tubs in the freezing winter to mash the steamed rice and koji into a paste, believing it was necessary to dissolve the rice and cultivate the bacteria.

However, in 1909, national researchers discovered a scientific breakthrough: if the temperature was meticulously controlled at the start of brewing, the natural enzymes in the koji would automatically dissolve the rice on their own, completely eliminating the need for physical mashing. This led to the creation of the Yamahai method—literally meaning the "elimination (hai) of Yama-oroshi.

"While it discarded the backbreaking physical labor, Yamahai remains a highly time-consuming technique that takes twice as long as modern brewing. It requires master brewers to flawlessly manage invisible microorganisms over a month-long period. Today, Yamahai sakes are highly celebrated worldwide for their rich, deep umami, intricate complexity, and vibrant acidity, making them exceptionally well-suited for serving warm (Kanzake).