[A498] FREDERIC COSSARD BOURGOGNE BLANC BIGOTES QVEVRIS 2019 750ml

Bedeau and Bitotes, The Masterpieces

As you may already well know, "Bedeau" and "Bigotes" are not only Frederic Cossard's signature cuvée but also an absolute masterpiece of natural wine. Nowadays, it is common to see natural wines adorned with pop, comic-style illustrated labels, but it was actually Frederic Cossard who pioneered this trend—and he did so right in the heart of Burgundy. Its inaugural vintage was 2000.

Qvevris

A monumental shift followed with the 2018 vintage and the introduction of Qvevris. Seeking a pure expression of fruit and terroir, Cossard concluded that oak masked the wine's natural purity. He integrated Georgian Qvevris partially starting in 2018, added cement and steel vessels, and by 2020 completely eliminated wooden barrels from his cellar—an extraordinary move for a producer working with Burgundy's finest classic appellations, such as Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, and Puligny-Montrachet.

2019 Bigotes Qvevris

Bigotes is a great natural wine classic, made from Chardonnay from the Puligny-Montrachet area, near Volnay and Pommard. The age of the vines is 55 years. Frédéric Cossard produces wine exclusively from old vines. 

Just like the contrast between the 2018 and 2019 vintages of Bedeau Qvevris, the vintage difference in Bigotes Qvevris is equally striking. For the white wine, the 2019 vintage is crisp, sharp, and beautifully structured. It is incredibly dense. There is a delicate mineral vein—perhaps reminiscent of its Puligny origins—that is truly wonderful. While the 2018 vintage made us feel the raw energy drawn from the earth via the Qvevris, the 2019 presents itself with a striking purity, defined by the complete absence of any oak elements.