Fermier HONDA VINEYARDS & WINERY

Takashi Honda used to be a banker in Tokyo, but he moved back to Niigata, where he grew up, to become a vigneron. In 2005, Honda attended a winery management seminar hosted by Cave d’Occi Winery (one of the pioneers of Japanese handcrafted fine wine). In 2006, he established HONDA VINEYARDS & WINERY (Fermier) right next to Cave d’Occi with a small parcel of Albariño originally planted by them. Honda rose to the challenge, releasing the first Albariño wine made in Japan in 2009.

Fermier’s vineyards are located on the coastal sand dunes of Echizenhama at the foot of Mount Kakuda, where Albariño—a grape variety native to the Galician coast in northern Spain—is planted on this distinctive terroir. As soon as Honda began working in the vineyards, he was immediately inspired and became convinced of the potential of Albariño in this region. Indeed, the climates of Echizenhama and Galicia share many similarities. Honda took action quickly, expanding his vineyards to Kakudahama (near Echizenhama), Niida (along the Shinano River), and Higashikayaba (also along the Shinano River, farmed by a contracted grower).

The geology of Echizenhama in Nishikan Ward, Niigata City, where the winery is located, consists of a layer of andesite bedrock formed by magma flows from eruptions of Mount Kakuda, which was once an underwater volcano. On top of this lies an alluvial layer created by the post-glacial rise in sea levels, and further above that, coastal sand dunes made of sandy soil that define the terroir of Niigata’s coastline.

At Echizenhama, the sand dunes reach a depth of about 10 meters, allowing the grapevines to root in sandy soil containing minerals from the Sea of Japan, absorbing moisture and nutrients. Wines made from grapes grown in Fermier’s Echizenhama vineyards express the nearby sea terroir with characteristics such as the salty notes of Albariño and the iodine aroma of Cabernet Franc. Generally, well-drained, nutrient-poor soils like those here are considered ideal for growing wine grapes.

Today, Honda cultivates about 2 hectares of vineyards. The estate is planted primarily with Albariño, alongside Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Gris, while varieties such as Chardonnay and Merlot are sourced from contracted growers. Herbicides and chemical fertilizers are never used. However, he maintains the flexibility to apply minimal pesticides when necessary, as Japan’s high humidity creates a higher risk of downy mildew.

To make wine that purely reflects the nature of Niigata, Honda first accepts the environment and listens to the vines. Only when the vines show a need does he step in to assist them; as a result, the use of agrochemicals is minimal or zero. “I just want to make wine from the terroir naturally. Organic or biodynamic farming is not the goal. Vignerons shouldn’t force their ideals onto the grapes,” says Honda.

In the cellar, Honda takes an equally natural approach: fermentation occurs spontaneously with wild yeasts, wine is moved by gravity, sulfur dioxide (SO2) is kept to a minimum, and all work is carried out by hand. He deliberately keeps production small so that every detail of the winemaking can be overseen with meticulous care.

Albariño & Rías Baixas

Albariño is considered Spain’s most noble white grape variety, native to Rías Baixas (meaning “lower fjords”) in Galicia, northwestern Spain. Established as a Denominación de Origen (D.O.) in 1988, Rías Baixas consists of five sub-zones, with Val do Salnés—regarded as the birthplace of Albariño—accounting for over 60% of the variety’s production. Like Niigata, the region has a humid Atlantic climate with 1,600–1,800 mm of annual rainfall, cool summers, and mild winters. To protect the vigorous vines from ground moisture in this damp climate, grapes are traditionally trained on high pergolas rather than standard trellises. Albariño’s small, thick-skinned green berries resist fungal diseases well, though low yields make cultivation costly.

Wine Style & Evolution

Known as the “Wine of the Sea” for its natural affinity with seafood, Albariño produces aromatic, well-balanced wines with vibrant acidity and pronounced minerality. Young wines show aromas of herbs, bay leaf, mint, and anise, layered with flavors of apple, apricot, citrus, tropical fruits, and chalky minerality. After a year of aging, apple notes evolve into white peach, quince, and honey, while herbal and mineral finishes deepen. Granite soils yield structured, mineral-driven wines, whereas sandy soils produce softer, rounder expressions—and today, oak-fermented or oak-aged styles are also emerging alongside classic fresh versions.

Fermier’s Vision

Believing Niigata is a chosen land for Albariño just like Rías Baixas, Fermier strives to craft wines that harmonize the grape’s lively acidity and stone-fruit character with the distinct personality of Niigata’s nature. Through this approach, the winery aims to express a distinct minerality shaped by Echizenhama’s coastal terroir, the aromatic elegance and clean, lingering finish typical of sandy soils, and a delicate, supple texture that reflects Japan’s climate and the sensibility of a Japanese vigneron.

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AL: Albariño / CF: Cabernet Franc / CS: Cabernet Sauvignon / Me: Merlot / PV: Petit Verdot / PN: Pinot Noir / PG: Pinot Gris